Added: Shanise Fast - Date: 15.09.2021 16:11 - Views: 42047 - Clicks: 8015
Mike, looking back after exiting the icy Atlantic surf. Photo: Maureen McNamara. While I snapped a few more shots of the lines still rolling in, I chatted with him about surfing and surfboards. Different de concepts, but both very valid vehicles Look backed waved the long, walled up, reeling sandbar waves at the River. The long-period swell was still dredging up some shoulder-high sets and both he and I had managed to catch some long rides on the bumpy too much northNorthwest, almost side-shore faces.
Mike told me it was only his fourth session of the year, that he was really more a skier than a hardcore surfer. But I could tell he had experience. Aesthetically pleasing; more ballroom, than hip-hop. While Mike and I chatted, I looked a few cars down in the parking lot as two girls from Quebec suited up. Neither was properly equipped for the cold, wearing 3-mil suits and no hoods in the barely 50 degree water.
Tide, wind, insufficient rubber, no matter. How could you not admire their exuberance? As I drove away, I thought about those girls and Mike. I live a five-minute drive from the ocean and 15 minutes from two of my favorite breaks.
I can sometimes smell the ocean from my bungalow, three miles from the coast. Mike had driven over miles; the girls had driven six hours. All for a day in the degree ocean! Something is special in that. Surfing and the ocean have a mystical draw to those who are addicted to it.
We all look back after leaving the water. But surfers, all surfers, we always look back. Hell, last summer I even broke my toe, stubbing it on a rock, as I climbed the bluff and turned to look back at the hurricane swell that was still pumping in overhead sets. However, surfing is way, way more than just another sport.
Surfers, and surfing, are not like any other people, or any other activity. Each time a session ends, and you turn your back to the ocean and begin to leave, there is something about it, something visceral that compels you to turn one last time and look back. Toggle. The Look Back. Maureen McNamara. View Comments. Newsletter Only the best. We promise. Contribute our community of contributors.
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